Portofino and Paraggi are truly wonderful. We visited in May, just before the start of peak tourist season, and it felt like the perfect time to go. Even then, I could see how busy it must become in summer — the towns themselves are tiny. Santa Margherita, the nearby port town, feels a bit more spread out and offers a wider range of hotels at lower price points, while Portofino and Paraggi are more focused on luxury properties like the Belmond and one of my personal favorite hotel groups, Eight Hotels.
Even and I stayed at Eight in Cortina previously and absolutely loved it. The staff were incredibly attentive and professional — the kind of service that genuinely surprises you these days. What made our stay in Portofino especially memorable was discovering that several of the same staff members from Cortina were working there for the summer season. It made the experience feel unexpectedly personal.
But enough about Eight for now — although I’ll definitely have more to say later regarding beach clubs, pools, and gym access, which are naturally some of my favorite topics.
Portofino itself is a picturesque little harbor lined with restaurants along the water. One of our favorite lunches was at Ristorante Da I Gemelli, a seafood spot right on the bay. Everything was incredibly fresh, and honestly, I didn’t think it was overly expensive considering the quality and location.
After lunch, we walked up to the lighthouse and Castello Brown, which ended up being a much shorter hike than expected. At the edge of the peninsula there’s a two-level bar that makes for the perfect stop. The upstairs bar, La Portofinese, has sweeping views over the water and was ideal for a coffee, a Coke Zero, or an afternoon spritz.
Another favorite in town was Panificio Canale for focaccia and pizza — simple, casual, and genuinely delicious.
From our hotel, we would often walk to Paraggi along a beautiful pedestrian path above the road. Just past Chiesa di Divo Martino there’s a scenic pathway known as the “Path of Kisses” (I may be slightly off on the exact name), which eventually leads toward the Belmond Splendido property. One evening, we stopped there for aperitivo on the terrace before dinner.
The Splendido has two restaurants — one more relaxed grill-style option and a slightly more formal trattoria-style restaurant — both overlooking the bay. The property itself is stunning. It was designed by Martin Brudnizki, one of my favorite interior designers, who is also behind hotels and restaurants I love in London and Paris including Le Grand Mazarin, Broadwick Soho, and Vesper Bar at The Dorchester. He also recently completed Villa Beatrice, a private coastal villa available to rent nearby.
And then there’s the pool at Splendido — a dramatic waterfall-edge pool overlooking the coastline and castle below. It’s every bit as beautiful as the photos suggest.
One of my favorite parts of the entire trip, though, was the hiking. From Portofino, you can actually explore much of the Ligurian coast on foot. Cinque Terre is doable with more effort, but the easier and incredibly rewarding route is the hike to Camogli.
We did it one morning, and while it’s long and filled with stairs, it was one of those experiences that feels deeply local in the best way. The trails were full of Italians out hiking with friends and family, and along the route there are tiny cafés and restaurants tucked into the hills.
Camogli itself is charming — a colorful seaside town with a much more local feel. There was one pastry shop with an enormous line stretching outside every morning, always a good sign. The “it” hotel in town (name to be confirmed) felt slightly dated but had incredible views over the water.
For lunch, we ate at La Camogliese, a restaurant perched directly above the sea. The seafood was exceptional, and we drank Vermentino — the crisp local white wine native to Liguria and also common in Sardinia. It felt like the perfect meal after the hike.
The entire Ligurian coastline is threaded with walking trails, and I honestly think it’s one of the most underrated parts of visiting this region.
Our hotel also had its own beach club, which we loved, though Langosteria next door offers a beach club experience as well. If you’re looking for something more casual, Santa Margherita has plenty of beach clubs and waterfront spots along the coast.
Langosteria, in general, is always one of my go-to places whenever I’m in a city that has one. Yes, it’s overpriced — but somehow I still love it. The atmosphere is always fun, the crowd is lively, and the food is consistently good. Sometimes that combination alone is worth it.
We also popped into Le Carillon and, honestly, I thought it was a bit cheesy — very heavy on the Dolce & Gabbana aesthetic in a way that felt more staged than authentic. The wine list also surprisingly had very few Italian wines and included Whispering Angel, which was more or less a dealbreaker for us. I’m sure during peak summer season it draws a big crowd, but personally, I wouldn’t believe all the hype.
One spot I’m already excited to try next time, though, is Concordia. It seemed packed with locals, run by actual Italians, and had the kind of atmosphere that usually ends up being far more memorable than the trendier places.