There are places that live up to the hype, and then there is Sardinia. I'll be honest — we almost didn't make it. The first night at Phi Beach was a bit of a disaster (we are absolutely not beach club people and the service was chaos), and I genuinely thought the trip was heading in the wrong direction. But then we reset. We went for a hike the next morning, stumbled onto a wonderful local restaurant, got coffee at Cala di Volpe, and everything shifted. What followed was one of the best trips we've taken — crystalline water, long lunches that stretched into the afternoon, a hilltop town with music spilling into the street, a boat day through the archipelagos, and a final dinner at an agriturismo that felt like the most Sardinian thing I've ever done. It's a place that is glamorous and completely authentic at the same time, which is increasingly rare in the Mediterranean.
WHERE TO STAY
Hotel Cala di Volpe
The iconic Costa Smeralda property and for good reason. It has hosted everyone from movie stars to royalty and it still feels like the real thing — glamorous, beautifully positioned over the marina, and with a legendary lunch scene. Even if you're not staying here, come for the barbecue lunch by the water.
Petra Segreta Resort & Spa
This is where we stayed and it was wonderful. Tucked into the granite hills above San Pantaleo with views that stretch all the way to the sea. The atmosphere feels completely removed from the busier coastal resorts — quiet, beautiful, and a great base for exploring the area. The Michelin-starred Il Fuoco Sacro restaurant on site is spectacular.
Su Gologone Experience Hotel
If you want to go deeper into authentic Sardinian culture this is your answer. Set in the Nuoro region, far from the Costa Smeralda crowd, it's one of the most genuinely immersive properties on the island.
Staying in San Pantaleo
Worth considering if you want to be in the heart of village life. Restaurants, cafés, boutiques and galleries all within walking distance, and the energy of the town in the evenings is something else.
As a Fora travel advisor I have access to Virtuoso rates and perks at several of these properties — book through me for upgrades, breakfast, and extras you won't get booking direct.
The iconic Costa Smeralda property and for good reason. It has hosted everyone from movie stars to royalty and it still feels like the real thing — glamorous, beautifully positioned over the marina, and with a legendary lunch scene. Even if you're not staying here, come for the barbecue lunch by the water.
Petra Segreta Resort & Spa
This is where we stayed and it was wonderful. Tucked into the granite hills above San Pantaleo with views that stretch all the way to the sea. The atmosphere feels completely removed from the busier coastal resorts — quiet, beautiful, and a great base for exploring the area. The Michelin-starred Il Fuoco Sacro restaurant on site is spectacular.
Su Gologone Experience Hotel
If you want to go deeper into authentic Sardinian culture this is your answer. Set in the Nuoro region, far from the Costa Smeralda crowd, it's one of the most genuinely immersive properties on the island.
Staying in San Pantaleo
Worth considering if you want to be in the heart of village life. Restaurants, cafés, boutiques and galleries all within walking distance, and the energy of the town in the evenings is something else.
As a Fora travel advisor I have access to Virtuoso rates and perks at several of these properties — book through me for upgrades, breakfast, and extras you won't get booking direct.
WHERE TO EAT.
L'Assaggio, San Pantaleo
One of my favourite lunches of the trip. Long, effortless, fresh seafood and local wine in the heart of the village. The kind of meal where you sit down at 1pm and realise it's somehow 4pm and nobody wants to leave. This is exactly what Sardinia is supposed to feel like.
Il Fuoco Sacro at Petra Segreta
Michelin-starred and worth every bit of it. The setting overlooking the granite hills is spectacular but the cooking is what you'll remember. Book ahead — this one fills up.
La Colti
This was our final dinner and honestly one of the highlights of the whole trip. It's an agriturismo — a traditional farm-to-table experience that is deeply Sardinian and not remotely touristy. Local ingredients, recipes that have been passed down for generations, and an atmosphere that makes you feel like you've found something most visitors never find. If you do one dinner off the beaten path, make it this one.
Ristorante Il Paguro at Capo d'Orso
Excellent seafood with one of the most beautiful waterfront settings on the coast. Go for lunch and stay as long as they'll let you.
Le Grand at Cala di Volpe
Dinner under the stars at one of the most glamorous hotels in Europe. It delivers completely.
Giagoni & Le Bohème
Both worth adding to the list — solid, reliable, and popular with locals and visitors who know where to look.
One of my favourite lunches of the trip. Long, effortless, fresh seafood and local wine in the heart of the village. The kind of meal where you sit down at 1pm and realise it's somehow 4pm and nobody wants to leave. This is exactly what Sardinia is supposed to feel like.
Il Fuoco Sacro at Petra Segreta
Michelin-starred and worth every bit of it. The setting overlooking the granite hills is spectacular but the cooking is what you'll remember. Book ahead — this one fills up.
La Colti
This was our final dinner and honestly one of the highlights of the whole trip. It's an agriturismo — a traditional farm-to-table experience that is deeply Sardinian and not remotely touristy. Local ingredients, recipes that have been passed down for generations, and an atmosphere that makes you feel like you've found something most visitors never find. If you do one dinner off the beaten path, make it this one.
Ristorante Il Paguro at Capo d'Orso
Excellent seafood with one of the most beautiful waterfront settings on the coast. Go for lunch and stay as long as they'll let you.
Le Grand at Cala di Volpe
Dinner under the stars at one of the most glamorous hotels in Europe. It delivers completely.
Giagoni & Le Bohème
Both worth adding to the list — solid, reliable, and popular with locals and visitors who know where to look.
Sunset & Evenings
San Pantaleo in the evening
This was genuinely one of the most alive little towns I have ever been to. Music spilling out of everywhere, the streets buzzing, a wonderful dinner at the mussel restaurant. We wandered for hours and didn't want to leave. Don't skip this.
Phi Beach
Look — our experience was a bit chaotic. The service was clunky, the opening night crowd was overwhelming, and we are just not beach club people. But the view. The view from Phi Beach at sunset is ridiculous. My honest advice: go for sunset drinks only, not a full evening. The scenery alone earns it.
Rocco Beach Club
Far more our speed. Beautiful views over the Maddalena Archipelago, relaxed atmosphere, and a much better option if you want a proper sunset aperitivo without the chaos.
The hilltop between San Pantaleo and Petra Segreta
Not a venue, just a viewpoint — but the late afternoon light turning the granite landscape golden with the sea in the distance is one of those travel moments you don't forget. Stop here on your way back from anywhere.
This was genuinely one of the most alive little towns I have ever been to. Music spilling out of everywhere, the streets buzzing, a wonderful dinner at the mussel restaurant. We wandered for hours and didn't want to leave. Don't skip this.
Phi Beach
Look — our experience was a bit chaotic. The service was clunky, the opening night crowd was overwhelming, and we are just not beach club people. But the view. The view from Phi Beach at sunset is ridiculous. My honest advice: go for sunset drinks only, not a full evening. The scenery alone earns it.
Rocco Beach Club
Far more our speed. Beautiful views over the Maddalena Archipelago, relaxed atmosphere, and a much better option if you want a proper sunset aperitivo without the chaos.
The hilltop between San Pantaleo and Petra Segreta
Not a venue, just a viewpoint — but the late afternoon light turning the granite landscape golden with the sea in the distance is one of those travel moments you don't forget. Stop here on your way back from anywhere.
WHAT TO DO
Charter a boat through the Maddalena Archipelago
If there is one thing I would tell you to prioritise, it's this. A full day on the water, stopping in secluded coves, swimming in water so clear it barely seems real, getting off on the islands. Stop in La Maddalena town for gelato — La Finestrella is the best — before heading back. It's the most Sardinia day you can have.
Hike the granite hills
The landscape around San Pantaleo is extraordinary. Granite peaks rising out of dense Mediterranean scrub, sweeping views over the coastline. The Mora Mora hike is the one to do — the reward at the top is worth every bit of the climb.
Wander Porto Cervo
The marina, the boutiques, the waterfront paths. Even if you're not shopping it's worth spending an afternoon here just to feel the atmosphere that made Costa Smeralda famous. Go slow.
Spend time in San Pantaleo
Artisan shops, galleries, the weekly market, cafés. My favourite village on the island. Budget more time than you think you need.
Wine tasting at Surrau
A perfect afternoon. Focus on the Vermentino and the Cannonau — the two varietals that best express what Sardinia tastes like. Tibulas is another good winery nearby.
Day trip to Corsica
One of the easiest international excursions in Europe. The ferry from Santa Teresa Gallura to Bonifacio takes under an hour and you arrive beneath dramatic limestone cliffs that feel like a completely different world. Highly recommend as a day trip if you have the time.
If there is one thing I would tell you to prioritise, it's this. A full day on the water, stopping in secluded coves, swimming in water so clear it barely seems real, getting off on the islands. Stop in La Maddalena town for gelato — La Finestrella is the best — before heading back. It's the most Sardinia day you can have.
Hike the granite hills
The landscape around San Pantaleo is extraordinary. Granite peaks rising out of dense Mediterranean scrub, sweeping views over the coastline. The Mora Mora hike is the one to do — the reward at the top is worth every bit of the climb.
Wander Porto Cervo
The marina, the boutiques, the waterfront paths. Even if you're not shopping it's worth spending an afternoon here just to feel the atmosphere that made Costa Smeralda famous. Go slow.
Spend time in San Pantaleo
Artisan shops, galleries, the weekly market, cafés. My favourite village on the island. Budget more time than you think you need.
Wine tasting at Surrau
A perfect afternoon. Focus on the Vermentino and the Cannonau — the two varietals that best express what Sardinia tastes like. Tibulas is another good winery nearby.
Day trip to Corsica
One of the easiest international excursions in Europe. The ferry from Santa Teresa Gallura to Bonifacio takes under an hour and you arrive beneath dramatic limestone cliffs that feel like a completely different world. Highly recommend as a day trip if you have the time.
A note before you go
What makes Sardinia special isn't any one hotel, beach, or restaurant. It's the rhythm. Mornings on the water, long seafood lunches that bleed into the afternoon, hilltop villages with music in the street, aperitivos as the sun goes down, dinners that stretch late because you never want the day to end. It's what the Mediterranean used to feel like everywhere and increasingly only feels like here. The Sardinians are enormously proud of their island and it shows. Go before everyone else figures it out.
