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I have now been to Rome twice & both times with my best friend Jenna—the first on a whim & the second for her wedding. I love Rome it has a big city feel with all the history and although there are tourists there are enough locals that it does not feel “too touristy.”
The first time we came to Rome, we did all the “top things to do in Rome.” We did zero planning as it was a last-minute trip. We decided 24 hours in advance to fly to Rome from Barcelona. No “winging it” it impossible. You MUST buy your tickets for all sites in advance. Buying a ticket to the Colosseum involves a website queue and tickets are likely to sell out 1-2 weeks in advance. So, plan and get tickets for the Sistine Chapel (Vatican Museum), Colloseum & Pantheon (at the very least). All the main sites are very close together, and close to the Trevi Fountain so it is easy to knock out in one day if you should choose.
 
On the second visit, my husband and I had time before the wedding festivities kicked off for the weekend, and we signed up for a scooter tour. I thought riding on the back of a scooter would be silly and fun, but it was also so educational. The tour involved many sites that were not on our radar. There is also the opportunity to customize your tour.
 
Regarding food, there are too many highlights. The pasta & pizza are not bad anywhere (I heard this about Italy in general and can say I did have some bad meals in Florence but have yet to be disappointed in Rome). My friend Jenna's favorite restaurant is Pierluigi which is in a great part of town. It is close to the water and you can select the fish and how you want to prepare it. If you're going to splurge over a two Michelin star meal (lunch or dinner) Il Paglaccio is a must. Evan and I were drooling over this meal. (in fact, Harry Styles was spotted there the next day after we went, darn, just missed him). Another highlight meal for Evan and me was Poldo e Gianna. They showed no reservations online and we were so close so we decided to just try (don’t be like us and make a res). The guy gave us the last seat in the house which was by the kitchen swinging door- we would happily take anything. It was fabulous! We had a Brunello & some amazing food- I had the cod cheek and Evan had a pasta dish they recommend.

​Hotels
Hotel D'Inghilterra , first hotel I ever stayed at in Rome so will always love this place. 
Soho House, in an off the beaten path part of the city
St Regis
Hotel Locarno
Pantheon Iconic Rome Hotel
FortySeven Boutique Hotel
ManFredi 

Eat
Il Paglaccio- two michelin starred and oh man its good. Open for lunch and dinner with options of 4, 8, 12 courses. Still dreaming of the thursday gnocchi and pasta with the mushrooms on top. 
Poldo e Gianna Osteria- Michelin guide spot that is down a secluded walkway in the heart of the city. Loved loved the food here. Packed restaurant and felt like a local spot. 
Dal Bolognese 
Pierluigi 
Roscioli Salumeria con Cucina 
​Oro Bistro 
Aroma
L’Archeologia
Retrobottega
Glass Hostoria